Today I went two hours up the mountains into the provenance of Granada, Spain. Went to Pampaneira and saw a famous fountain, winding streets with a rivulet running through it and stopped at a shop to sample cheeses, wines and dried meats. Then on to Trevélez in the western part of the Alpujarras region to visit La Solera Ham Factory and see the famous air-cured hams. The factory was…shall I say…pungent. It was definitely not a place a vegetarian would enjoy seeing. It can house 200,000 curing hams, each one left in salt and then hung in room after room, being rubbed with lard each time it moves rooms to seal out everything. Once the tour was finished there was a sip of wine and thinly sliced ham. Across the road a meal waited. I was very happy for the short walk in the fresh air before contemplating food as the air-curing ham left a distinct and lingering…ummm…aroma.
Lunch started with bread and a soup called puchero (which needed careful attention when saying because if said incorrectly means, as I was told, “delicate lady parts”). My main course was quite a surprise. I ordered fresh trout stuffed with bacon and when my plate came the fish was intact and fully on my plate – bones, skin, head and all. It was good once I figured out how to get to the meat. The other option was a traditional Alpuharran meal that had blood sausage. I was happy with my choice.
When I came down to the bench to get some wifi to post this people started gathering around and chatting. Loud and laughing and me trying to follow along. I noticed something I want to remember – the locals have this great little movement. They point their index finger to the sky and shake it furiously back and forth along with their head. “Nononononono.” I love this and look for it with any interaction I have.
Here’s my creative offering today. I seem to be obsessed with the view from my terrace but I guess that makes sense as I’m only here for a short time and I’m trying to capture it anyway I can in order to recall at will later on.